Free Folk Art Primitive Santa Claus Pattern ~ Hanging Doll ~ Scherer Art~ Beautiful Living

June 2, 2016




Materials List for Santa Doll with Wreath Hat

Sewing machine recommended but not necessary
1/4  yard of muslin
Scissors
Ivory Thread
Fiberfill
Wooden skewer or Turn It All Tools
Needle
Large Safety Pin
Carbon paper
Cinnamon
Small branch sticks
4” Grapevine wreath
13 rustic jingle bells (6 mm each)
Natural cording
20 gauge rusty wire
Fabri-Tac Adhesive
Extender
Mod Podge Matte Sealer

Paintbrushes:
#6 (American Painter) 4250B Bright
18/0 (Loew Cornell) Round
#4 Shader (Loew Cornell)
#0 Shader (Loew Cornell)

Acrylic Paints
Flesh tone (Americana)
Warm White (Americana)      
Melon (Americana)
Lamp Ebony (Americana)
Russet (Americana)
Honey Brown (Americana)
Burnt Sienna (Americana)
Cranberry Wine (Americana)
Sizzling Pink (Americana Neons)
Slate Grey (Americana)
Foxblood (Americana)
Fawn (Americana)
Mustard Seed(Americana)
Sterling Blue (Folk Art)




Instructions for Painted Santa Doll with Wreath Hat

Please read all instructions carefully before starting pattern.

BODY- Tape the Santa body top and bottom together to make one full Santa body. Trace the full body pattern onto doubled muslin and machine sew on traced line except for the sleeve areas where it says “Open” between the dots. Trim the seams and turn right side out by cutting a 1” opening in the back of body (long-ways). Turn right side out- use wooden skewer if needed. Iron the Santa body, making sure sewed edges are pulled out as far as they can go -so the Santa is nice and even all around. Cut carbon paper to the shape of Santa’s head/face. Position it over the fabric body where the head is, then place the paper pattern with Santa’s face over it (center it first). Trace the face so it is transferred to the fabric Santa face area.  Stuff the body with Fiberfill-but don’t over stuff or under stuff it. You don’t want bulges or a bare spots. It’ll be a little difficult keeping the filling from coming through the hand area, but try to leave just enough space for the stick to be pushed into it later, as well as the cord to be tied around the sleeve. (Trim any excess thread when tracing all parts of the Santa). Sew opening on the Santa’s back shut with  thread and needle. * Another option for tracing would be to trace the entire body and face onto fabric, put another piece of muslin over top of the one you traced and trace the outline of the body onto the top fabric. The reason is, this is the line you would sew, and when you turn it right side out after cutting an opening on the top fabric, your face is already nicely positioned.

Painting Santa
*Throughout the painting process, dip your brush in extender, or/and even apply a drop of extender to your paints on your palette (I just use an old glass dish). If you use water you will have to use it quite often because the paint dries out faster with it. At some point as well, you will need to clean your brushes in water so they don’t dry-up. Feel free to switch up brushes. You may find you like one better than the other.         
      
Paint Santa body, arms, and legs with Cranberry using largest paintbrush. Be sure not to paint beard and face area red. Rinse when switching colors or as needed. Using Mustard Seed and largest paintbrush, paint highlights on the front center of Santa’s belly, top of arms, top and front center of hat, back center and top of hat bottom of coat (remember, you are only adding highlights so you are NOT painting the entire area).  Let dry. Highlight again, but not covering as much area as you did the first time using Mustard Seed. Let dry. Use Lamp Black mixed with a little Cranberry along the lines of Santa’s beard and trim of hat; this is to create a shadow effect.  Do this under his armpits too. Blend.

You may need to add more red to get a nice smooth blend. Take your time. This is supposed to be fun not stressful. Mistakes can be painted over easily and even lightly sanded by hand if you make too many. Let dry.

*Note-Again you will often switch back and forth with paint brushes. I do this so many times I cannot write them all here. Use your best judgment when painting small areas and switch up with the brush that can best get in those areas.                                                                                                            
Paint Santa’s face with Flesh Tone (do not paint the eyes, mustache, nose, eyebrows-just the face), and do so with only a little bit of paint. You want to be able to see the features. It’s okay if you get some flesh on the eyes or elsewhere (you can fix up mistakes later). Using same brush (no need for rinsing here); outline features with Burnt Sienna, except for inside of eyes (Use Burnt Sienna for giving shadow under the hat/forehead area. Blend this color into the wet Flesh Tone. This makes it easy for blending when it’s wet.  Using brush of choice, paint the white areas of eyes with Warm White. Paint center of eyes with Sterling Blue. Let dry. Paint pupil with Lamp Black. Let dry. Add white dots in center of eyes with Warm White on pupils (refer to your own eyes in mirror to see where to place white light dot, or refer to Santa photo). Blend only a fine line of Slate Grey to upper white area of eyes for shadow effect. Blend. Blend Foxblood under the eyes. Let dry. Paint a fine line of Lamp Black on the bottom of eyelid, use this same brush and paint –paint the top on top eyelid. Paint eyebrows with Slate Grey. Let dry. Put highlights over eyebrows with Warm White. Let dry. Paint nostrils with Lamp black. Let dry. Paint bottom of nose and nostrils with a little Sizzling Pink. Put shadow in that area too, without covering all of the Sizzling Pink, with Foxblood.  Refer to any photos in directions for shadow and highlight areas.
                                                          
Paint cheeks using Melon.  Go over melon with a bit of Sizzling Pink. Blend. Put a little shadow along the bottom of the cheeks with Foxblood. Be sure to blend everything so you do not have hard lines; you want it to look natural. Add extender if your paints are drying out too fast-but not so much though that they are too watery.
                                                                   
Make a wash with Mustard Seed and a little water. Go over Santa’s face with a brush, but not his eyes or eyebrows. You are ONLY looking to give the skin a nice glaze so that it looks real.  It may be necessary to wipe it off with a cloth to achieve this effect, or use a clean brush to wipe it off. Do so carefully so you don’t wipe the face off. You only want a slight yellow glow. Blend Warm White just under the eyes, down the nose, and forehead for highlights. Let dry.

Paint beard and hair area on back of head with Gray Wolf. Add shadow by mixing a little Lamp Black and Slate Grey and paint just below the mustache. Do this also around the edges of the beard. Use Warm White for highlights on front of beard, top of mustache, and center back of hair area. Using Foxblood, give a little more shadow along the edge of the beard, mustache, and lips. Paint lips with Melon. Mix Burnt Sienna and a bit of Melon for shadow on the bottom of lip. Give a slight highlight to top of lip with Warm White. Paint the inside of the mouth Lamp Black.

Let dry. Use Warm White and your smallest paintbrush to make several fine hairs down the beard, mustache, eyebrows, and hair. Let dry. Do this again bust with Burnt Sienna, but just a little wisps.  Take Warm White on your brush again and add highlights to the top of nose (the nose should be the lightest point because it is the highest point to the sun and therefore gets the most light).  Still using the Warm White put a little on the whites of the eyes. Now that everything is dry, go over anything that looks like it might need a little more shadow or highlights. Compare yours to any of the photographs on the reference page. Let dry.

Take the wreath and break it apart until it’s flexible. You only need part of the wreath so you will be downsizing the wreath by cutting some of it off. Once you have done so, reshape it and make a new smaller wreath to fix Santa’s head. Use the wire that you cut from the wreath to hold it together. Place on Santa’s head and put a few stitches threw the wreath on the back and front side to hold it to Santa’s head; This means you will also have to put the stitches threw the top of Santa’s forehead area and back of Santa’s hat/body. Always use the photos I provided as reference if you are unsure. Hide the stitches as much as possible.

Santa’s Arms-Cut 2 tree sticks for Santa’s arms about 3 ½”. Put some Fabri-tac on the end of them and put one in each arm, which you will immediately tie the natural cording (cut 2) part way up the sleeve (about ½”). Note-the bottom of sleeves are not glued down all the way, so if you accidentally do this, work quickly to pull some of it up so you have a little bit of flair.
                                                       
Tie a 13” piece of natural cording around Santa’s waste and put a couple knots on the end (see any photos).

Legs-Cut two 5” sticks for Santa’s legs. Drill a small hole in the ends of each one. Place a small piece of wire through each one, and place each wire that is attached to the sticks through the bottom of Santa’s body. Twist to keep attached.

Sew 2 jingle bells above the rope around Santa’s body. These are to resemble buttons. When I sew mine on, I try to hide the stitches by going through his body and bringing the thread out the sides, then back in-repeat. You will need to paint over the stitches with the same Cranberry Wine paint to disguise it.

Sew 10 jingle bells on the bottom of Santa’s body by using the same method above. Take the last jingle bell and sew it to the top of Santa’s hat. Paint any stitching you see. Let dry. Put a safety pin long ways in Santa’s back for hanging. This Santa doll is only meant for hanging.

Brush some Mod Podge in various areas on Santa’s body (not the face or beard area) and quickly sprinkle cinnamon on those areas. Shake remaining cinnamon off.

You can seal the entire Santa with Mod Podge Matte that you brush on, just do not touch the jingle areas and string. You only want to seal the painted areas. This part is optional.

                              
Copyright 2014

This pattern is protected by copyright and may not
be photocopied or copied in any way for the use of
reselling or anything other than your personal use-
unless otherwise purchased from Scherer Art in the past. 
Scherer Art cannot be responsible for human errors,
printing errors or individualworkmanship. Patterns 
and finished items are not intended for small children 
or pets.

 Thank you and enjoy!









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